Going in Sanandaj, and feeling, after Irak, in a complete different society and culture, the symbols are strong and impressive, every place is non mixed outside of streets, shops and married couples, the absence of any western products, outside the olds Renault and Peugeots, the scarfs, chadors and other special outfits… i remember the difficulty to apprehend the country…
Then, Tabriz, meeting the student’s, Hooshang, Mustafa, Nasser… their happiness, their despair, their energy, their wishes, staying in their dormitory a couple of days, admiring the life of the iranians student’s, chatting with them about politics, about Khomeini, ‘ahhhh’ Khomeini, everyone has a word on him, but mostly by whispering you, ” Khomeini, not good…” joined with the laugh of the friends around. The classes, the tea, getting lost in the old labyrinth bazar, taking time to think about this society, the people, the travel..
Teheran, the crowd, the paykan, the motorbikes, visiting the palaces and museums, looking at this strong Persian culture, feeling humble, everyday blow by impressive artworks.. from the blue tiles, the wood work on doors and piles, to silver work on cup of teas. I joined Massoumeh and Shirin, two student’s met back in Tabriz, they showed me around everyday different parts of the capital, talking late about the society, and helping me getting closer to it. Shirin is an independent women, her own flat, her own choices, something avant-garde in Iran for a women, Massoumeh, was of every demonstration during the green movement three years ago, talking about it, was every time an intense moment, were you could feel that what was lived back then was still very present. A lot of young people went very depressed after, some left the country, and every time during the trip you feel that the young generation is shaped by this period now.. A generation full of dreams and energy..
On to Isfahan were arriving early at the bus stop i met greg an oz traveller, that invited me to stay to his friends place, Djawad and Reza two fellows around with their bikes all the time, everyday was very chilly in the lovely city, the architecture there was impressive, and again the mosq at the central square was gorgeous. The city is crossed by three old bridges and the side of the river, the place to walk around looking at the families doing the classic iranian picnic on their persian carpet..
We then went on the desert at Djawad’s home town, bus, then quickly a hitch-hike on the back of a truck, to rich the tiny fifteen homes town, a four to five hundreds years old castle in the center, nobody really know how old is the town, it feels that the country is scattered with ancient ruins, part of the landscape, showing everywhere the busyness of Persian empire since centuries.
Friends joined us, boys from the countryside with who we had much fun, their traditional view, even if they don’t like the government in place, as most of the people met seems so.. checking the other towns around on the back of the motorbike, meeting the old mens, looking at the pomegranate trees.
The landscape were great so with Djawad we did a shot, a great experience, and i will tell you and show you all of this later, i hope so.
A late ride, with the late golden light, the traditional music, and desert flowing through the window, as Reza said to us then, “la second infinie” with his iranian accent. We were back in town.
Going around the bazars, sending her a package, and keeping on going.
Shiraz, were Mohammadreza welcome me with a great picnic in the countryside, a perfect introduction, a photographer working here. We met through internet two years ago, and i remember saying myself, “how exciting if i could go to Iran”. On with his wife and his friends we spend the day taking photographs and enjoying the simple pleasures around a fire, few grilled potatoes, and talks about Reza’s travel stories, France, Iran, and plenty other things..
The next day, after a day of hanging out by the bazars and their blue basins, by one of them, Bahar and Foroz, two ladies calmly eating ice-creams, “Please by him a destiny paper !” tells me Foroz. Ayub, the kid, seller of the destiny papers, was in fact way more interested at their ice cream then trying to sell his papers… So we went buying ice-cream, then he offered me the destiny paper, i will not tell you the tale but since i am keeping it.
Bahar and Foroz are cousin and are great. Bahar a clothe designer, works here in Shiraz, and Foroz, is an amazing painter from Teheran. The time with them was just one the most refreshing time i had since long, going around every night, listening the traditional music, being excited, looking over the city, talking endlessly, being happy..
Everyday, a new experience, walking by Qurban gate, the gardens, in a restaurant looking at Foroz artwork which is about her sexuality and her love life, extremely intim, being scared of just being watched looking at these paintings, and feeling in a second the intensity and the complexity of the society here, the lack of freedom, for everything, from having a boyfriend or girlfriend, to saying something about the authorities, dressing in an uncommon way, to creating Art. One night, by just hanging out with the girls, it was 9 o’clock, police showed up and we ended at the station for three hours.. They were simply explained that hanging out with a boy, being not married, and specially the way were dressed (which was normal way for most of irani) and specially at this time… They were put in their files… Partying the next day, were everything is different, no scarf, loud music and alcohol, dancing and having fun, a moment of lightness in the Iranian complexity, in the iranian intensity… Everyday, a new experience, everyday that now are great memories.
The days went by very fast since the entry in this country, and over a month have passed like a day. In the other hand this month brought so much experiences, intensity, and happiness, it simply feels great. I can’t know yet how this trip is changing me, but in a way i feel it already. Feeling very thankful and humble.
Mohammad, Hooshang Mustafa, Nasser, Shirin, Massoumeh, Djawad, Reza, Mohammadreza, Mariam, Reza, Bahar, Foroz… and everybody met along. Iran, for what you did brought me along the way, and for what you will bring me along in the future. Thank you.
